We watched our home island of Oahu sink below the horizon yesterday evening as we motored north towards the islands of French Frigate Shoals, Kure Atoll, Lisianski, and Pearl & Hermes Atoll. We are again headed out on a research trip monitoring the coral, fish, algae and ocean chemistry of the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands. For the next 26 days, the largest stretch of land that we see will only be a few feet above sea level, literally. Where there is land, it will be sandy burms covered sparsely in tough, dry weeds and grasses. There are some pinnacles of rock that rise abruptly from the ocean and support bird colonies, but these are few and far between. They are amazing to see, but even if we were allowed to go on land, these pinnacles would require climbing ropes, harnesses, and good timing / luck to be able to scale their sides. Given the rugged and desolate nature of this area - providing little water, shade or food - of all the areas we visit, the Northwestern islands would be the worst to be shipwrecked on.
Although the above water scenery may be less than spectacular, I am looking forward to what we will find beneath the surface. These waters are home to large schools of Ulua, a 2-3 foot silvery fish that I've seen eat dive knives, the protected and endangered Monk Seals, and schools of the relatively friendly and very harmless white-tipped reef sharks. White-tips are the shark equivalent of Golden Retrievers, generally good natured, curious, and only frisky if you really try to irritate them. Hopefully we will have the opportunity to see many of these critters, big and small, and it will be good to get back in the water after a summer on land.
Although a small cold front has blown in this evening, we are still hoping for calm seas and smooth sailing. If the weather holds, this area can be spectacular for diving. If it doesn't, well, I will be wishing for my warm bed and coffeemaker well before the 26 days is over! On the bad weather days I can't believe I do this work for so little, on the good weather days, I often can't believe that someone pays me to do this!
I hope you are doing well, where ever you may be.
Take care and good night,
Cristi
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